Calcutta's Mr. Ajay Kumar Travelled To Harbin Fashion Week China

Calcutta's Mr. Ajay Kumar travelled to the ramp of Harbin Fashion Week 2025 in China  

Calcutta's Mr. Ajay Kumar, known for its bold and vibrant designs, was back on the ramp of Harbin Fashion Week 2025, with 'Elemental'. His signature striking prints apart, Ajay showed geometry too. Pop shades and the play of prints made it a dramatic offering, where each piece was a statement. t2ONLINE spoke to the designer about the mood of 'Elemental'.

Q: You were back at Harbin Fashion Week. What was the experience like?

A: Harbin always feels like coming home to me. The energy there — electric. This city is a cultural melting pot, where modernity dances with tradition, much like the philosophy behind my designs. This time, with the Elemental collection, I wanted to capture the raw, untamed spirit of nature.

Nature, for me, is a never-ending muse. It’s this unending source of inspiration that allows me to create something fresh and unexpected, season after season. There’s no moodboard, no spreadsheet — just raw creativity. We immerse ourselves in the design process, building the collection step by step, piece by piece.

That’s why every design feels unique, like it has its own story to tell. It’s a challenge, of course — but that’s the thrill of it. For the finale, when the model walked out in that leopard-print ruffle net dress, and the crowd gasped—I mean, that’s why I design. That moment of surprise, that connection with the audience, is what fuels me. It’s not just about clothes; it’s about creating an emotion, a memory. And that’s what makes it all worth it.

Q: The collection looks relaxed yet apt for occasion wear… how did you curate it this time?

A: You caught that! Contrast. I wanted to strike that perfect balance — effortless elegance meets sartorial grandeur. I always say: 'Fashion should feel like a second skin, not a costume.' Well-tailored double-breasted suits, statement winter parkas paired with printed shorts giving that resort-vibe, hand-printed biker leather jackets paired with gold shirts and silk jacquard trousers, effortless seersucker pants paired with bomber style jackets are some of the pieces along with our signature Mr. Ajay Kumar engineered printed shirts in relaxed cuts.

Our statement bomber jackets are being well-appreciated for India’s modern fusion occasions — literally replacing traditional bundis (waistcoats) — modern and popular among the young. It’s a reflection of the man wearing it. The idea was to design a collection that speaks to both urban sophistication and celebratory flamboyance.

Q: What are the new prints you developed this time?

A: Over the years, the tiger and the lotus have emerged as our core motifs, each carrying its own symbolism. The tiger, with its raw power, and the lotus, with its serene grace, are like two sides of the same coin — perfectly embodying the duality we explore in our designs. We introduced prints like Twin Tigers, symbolising strength and balance, Tiger Skin Mirage, a juxtaposition of organic textures with digital precision, and Gilded Baroque, where vintage architectural elements meet gilded decadence.

To bring these prints to life, we layered them with gold and silk jacquards, intricate appliqué, hand-painted details, and embroidery. Each piece tells a story — whether it’s the untamed ferocity of the wild or the tranquil beauty of a floral paradise. These motifs aren’t just designs; they’re the soul of our brand.

Q: What are the global spring-summer trends for you?

A: Spring-Summer 2025 is embracing bold maximalism and tactile luxury. Think expressive prints, gender-fluid silhouettes, artful layering and a focus on sustainability — designs that are both striking and responsible. Although the global trend is moving towards minimalism, India is such a vibrant country with weddings and festivities that we cannot be minimal. We dress decadent yet effortlessly.

Statement co-ord sets, elevated resort wear, and structured yet relaxed tailoring define the season. So, for me, SS'25 is about bold prints, fluidity, cultural storytelling, and sustainability. It’s not just what you wear; it’s how it makes you feel. Whether it’s the confidence of a well-cut suit or the freedom of a flowing resort set, it’s all about creating moments that resonate.

Q: What does international exposure do to the brand?

A: At Harbin Fashion Week, you’re representing India alongside 35 other designers from across the world. International exposure is like a masterclass in design — it pushes you to think bigger, to refine your craft, and to elevate your vision.

It expands our dialogue of design by allowing us to take Indian craftsmanship and our love for maximalist storytelling to a global stage. Harbin Fashion Week, in particular, is an incredible platform where East meets West, and it enables us to connect with a diverse audience who appreciates bold, avant-garde fashion. You are not only growing as a designer, but you are growing your brand.

Every international showcase strengthens our brand’s global resonance, fosters collaborations, and reaffirms our commitment to bringing modern Indian luxury to the world.

Ajay Kumar

Original link: Calcutta's Mr. Ajay Kumar travelled to the ramp of Harbin Fashion Week 2025 in China

Author: Saionee Chakraborty